
Last I left off we were in Florence and (I) completely envious of the shop-a-holics that had come to Italy prepared to buy fine Italian goods. However, since that time, we made our way to Venice and now to Ljubljana, Slovenia. I hadn’t planned on writing at this point, but since getting to Ljubljana I felt compelled to share some thoughts/experiences.
Venice was all that you would expect: gorgeous, wonderfully unique, a bit overpriced and hugely overcrowded. I have been to Venice once before during the high tourist season of July 2001. Either Venezia’s high season has shifted to start in April; or the Low Season has become the new High Season as black has become the new pink. Or is it pink the new black? Anyhow, the pizza is exactly the same as I remember it – absolutely AMAZING!!!! It was good. So good it was worth the 4euro/slice we had to pay. We enjoyed our only night in Venice and the next morning took our hotel up on their offer for a free ride to the island of Murano. Murano is an even smaller island than Venice where they make all the cool hand-blown glass trinkets, chandeliers, glassware, etc. It was pretty neat. I have never seen glasswork like this before, in its grandiosity, and a little sad I will never be able to afford it. Murano is definitely like Venice, but with about 100,000 less people on it, so we spent the day meandering from shop to shop with gelato trying to find the best, most reasonable, gift for our sisters (which we did find, but I am not going to spoil). We left Murano on time but only barely in time to run back to our hotel, grab our luggage, only to run back up the bridge with our 50lbs duffels, catch a waterbus to the train station where we would be on our way to Ljubljana, Slovenia. We are getting pretty good running up stairs with luggage in hand.
The Eurorail Train Schedule, in all its complexity, has proved to be a priceless item for this trip so far. It allows us to see where in Europe we could go from wherever we are, even if the trains really don’t go there. For example, we saw from the schedule that there is a train that departs Venice for Ljubljana everyday at 15:45. What the schedule doesn’t mention is that the train isn’t actually going to Ljubljana, it’s going to Vienna and when it stops in a village called Villach, Austria you have to jump off and run to a train on it’s way to Beograd, Serbia and jump off again when it reaches Ljubjana, Slovenia – and you figure all this out only by matching a train’s departure time. Part of the adventure I suppose.
When we booked our ticket for Ljubljana, it was the first thing we did when we arrived in Venice. It’s another rule of ours, which has gone unmentioned to this point. The rule is basic: “Plan the way out [of a place] when you get in.” It’s proven to be a helpful rule since apparently you can’t just show up for a train whenever you want to leave. You end up realizing you can’t leave until the next day and now have to find another place to stay in a city you were emotionally and mentally ready to leave.
When we got on the train for Vienna>Villach>Serbia, there were people in our seats. This happens a lot, so you just ask nicely for the people to move and it’s no problem. This time, however, it was a problem. With 3 minutes before the train pulled away from the station, we all had come to realize that the tickets we were holding were booked for the wrong day. New rule: always review dates on tickets- not just destinations. So, a little confused, now a little stressed, and with no time to go get off the train and get the ticket changed, we made the decision to stay on the train and see what transpired. We figured we’d either get to stay on board and pay a few extra euros, or we get kicked off at the next station.
It turned out not being too big a deal and we almost got away with it. When the guy came to validate our ticket he stamped it and started handing it back to us and then at the very last second, he stopped abruptly, brought the ticket close up to his face and studied it for a second. Busted. He handed it back and pointed to the date. We shrugged and said it was a mistake. He said, “OK, no problem, pay for new ticket”. “What?? Two whole new tickets? What do we do with the ones we bought?” Well ideally you just get a refund at the ticket counter, but of course only a ticket counter in Italy could issue a refund. So unless during a three minute stop somewhere random in Italy on the way to Austria we could jump off the train, get in line, and poorly communicate that we got the wrong ticket, there would be no refund. But the adventure didn’t stop there.
We couldn’t use a credit card on the train (because apparently Italian trains don’t have good communication) so we had to pay for our new ticket with the 40Euros we had in hand. The tickets were eighteen each so that gave us 4 extra. Not a big deal you say?? Well, those 40 euros were specifically in hand to make sure we could good grab some food on board since we hadn’t eaten since breakfast before Murano. Now it is 4pm; we’re hungry, and we couldn’t use the credit card to buy food. The guy at the café indicated that Austria had better communication so we could use the credit card for food once we got out of Italy and into Austria – only we get off in Austria, so it didn’t help much and we would have to continue on hungry. We made it to Villach a few minutes late (of course because Italian trains never run ontime) only to run down the stairs, then up the stairs, then down the stairs to the elevator to get to the platform where we barely made our train to Beograd. I guess this doesn’t sound too exciting, but all this running and stair climbing, it’s 7pm and we hadn’t eaten in 10 hours. Oh well, make it to the train for Beograd and we can buy something on board. Wrong again. The train from Villach to Serbia was like an old rusty Dautsan with 3 wheels and no transmission. When we asked if there was food, the train guy looked at us funny then took us to a dark closet where there was warm Fanta in a box. Great, whatever, we’ll take two. “What? I’m sorry, I didn’t understand…oooh …cash only?” Problem. We wouldn’t eat until arriving in Ljubljana around 9:30 that night. So there we were, hungry and seriously hoping the train we were on was on its way to Serbia via Ljubljana. We arrived in Ljubljana at 9:30 dark, cold, and wet. In the station we passed a vending machine and peered inside like a child would. We started to scramble around in our pockets for whatever we could find. Thank goodness Slovenia would be cheap –the crusty Euro change we found in the corners of our pockets would be enough to buy us not one, but TWO Snickers bars!!! YeeeeHaw!! Food! Yes! The Snickers was going to satisfy us enough while we walked around the sleeping city to find a hotel with availability. Found one! Cheap? Check. Safe? Check. Uh…free breakfast? Double Check. Awesome. Check in, dump the bags, turn around, get dinner. One of the best meals we had in weeks and it would be the perfect ending to a somewhat adventures (and long, starving) day.
This blog is long enough and so I am not going to go on and on in great detail about Ljubljana. However, I will give you a brief description of our Ljubljana experience. Ljubljana is the city capital of Slovenia, which became its own country back in 1991 and recently joined the European Union in 2004. With becoming an EU member, Slovenia was able to get funding from the EU to help rebuild and renovate large parts of the country and cities, which included Ljubljana. (btw – the correct pronunciation is “loob-yawn-a”) Ljubljana is described in our Lonely Planet guide as a “Prague without the crowds and Paris without the attitude.” We found this to be true, but if you haven’t been to either of these cities, you wouldn’t get it. But basically Ljubljana has all the quintessential characteristics of what makes a European city European: it’s old, has a castle, a beautiful cathedral, cobblestone streets, and a superfluous amount of street cafes. However, what it did not have were streets that were over flooded with crowds or overpriced anything. It was so great to be in a relaxed state in the middle of a capital city. A city, which apparently, has credible evidence to say they invented democratic government. I forget the exact reason why and my resource on Slovenian history has already been shipped home. Much EU funding went into rebuilding Ljubljana (the renovations to our hotel included) and we found it to be a safe, pleasant, quiet, and very enjoyable city. Good cafes, good food, very nice and welcoming people.
Tomorrow we are off for Zagreb, Croatia. We tried going to Croatia during our honeymoon, but the ferries were not running in the off-season. Zagreb is not on the coast (darn) but we will be seeing Croatia nonetheless.
Days Traveled: 22
Distance Traveled: 17,520km/10,950mi
Countries Visited: 7
Missing: Charlie, Wednesdays at Bubs, and Thursday night NBC TV